Wednesday, April 30, 2008

fairing building






These numbers are for a nosecone 22 inches wide with a
longitudinal axis length of 30 inches. That is an
ellipse that has a Y max of 11 and an X max of 30.
This ratio of the elliptical radii is the same as the
nose cone of the quest when viewed from above. 2.7:1.


The table shows you the radius Y of the nosecone at
every point along the longitudinal axis X. The celta
which is supposed to be delta and the cumulative delta
columns calculate the length of the outside of the
nosecone from midpoint to tip.

You should end up with something like photo 36 where
the filled area gets cut away. Then you just have to
zip it all together with zip ties.

When drawing your cut lines on the coroplast you will
use the Length measurement along the center of any
section, then you will measure out the width from the
center line to mark your cut line. Since you will
want some plastic material uncut to hold it together
and will want it longer than just the nosecone, to
give yourself more coverage you will start with a
piece longer than 33.9 inches, in fact you might use a
whole half sheet.

This chart is based on 8 sections, so the width in F3
is 1/16 of the total sheet width, which is 69 inches.
You want to run the coroplast corugations
longitudinally, so you will need to do this by cutting
a 4x8 sheet in half. It might be tempting to run it
the other way and use just one sheet 48x69 versus two
at 48x34.5. Coroplast kinks easily and you might get
kink in it as you try to bend it into shape, but the
base would be very circular and solid. I also not
sure what will happen if you bend it into that tight a
circle.

So the way I do it, you would have two sheets 48 long
and 34.5 wide. Eight times 4.3 should = 34.5. Close
enough.

Now from the top which will be the pointy end measure
33.9352 inches down and draw a line across the sheet.
Now separate that into 4 segments by lines. Finally
draw a center line in each segment.

Moving up 5.00237 inches make points 4.257 inches to
each side of each center line. At 10.024 make points
at 4.07; at 15.09 make points at 3.73 etc. If you do
a good job on just one segment and a better job of
cutting out the remove section, you can just use that
as a template and draw the other lines from it
avoiding a lot of painful measurement. When done zip
the sections together and then the two halves together.


You can scale the numbers up or down linearly for a
narrower or wider nosecone. The 2.7:1 ratio is
probably pretty efficient and since cross winds are
not a problem shortening isn't all that necessary. If
you did want to shorten the nosecone to a 2:1 ratio
for example which widens it out for your feet sooner,
you would need to recalculate the spreadsheet.

The equation in C4 is sqrt[((1-b4^2/(30)^2)*(11)^2]
where 30 is the x length and 11 the y axis length.
For a 2:1 ratio you would change the 30 to 22.

The equation in d4 is sqrt[(b4-b3)^2+(c3-c4)^2) it
just finds the angular distance from point to point.

The equation in e4 is d4 + e3. Which sums the deltas
to determine how far along the outside of the nosecone
we are.

The equation in f3 is 2*3.14*c3/16 ; which determines
1/16 of the circumference of the nosecone at each
point along the circumference.

All the equations are filled down.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008




You can barely see it, but that red up front is a faired p-38 pulling this group of double century riders up a gentle grade. There is a Paris-Brest-Paris rider in there, and the guy behind the camera is Chuck Bramwell who has ridden at least 60 doubles, 3 PAC tours across the USA, and runs caltriplecrown.com.

Sunday, January 27, 2008

Saturday, October 6, 2007

Buck Rodger's P-38 Starship

Photos by Sue Huss Photography

Faired P-38. This bike goes about 29 mph down the same 3% grade hill that the faired trike below goes 25.5. Without the front fairing the trike goes 23 down that hill. The bike is capable of 25 mph at around 220 watts on flat windless terrain. It would take a road bike with a 170 pound rider 300 to 320 watts to achieve 25 mph. My personal bests on this bike are: A 4:40 out and back century total time, about 22 mph on the bike. Average power 163 watts. A 33 mile hilly loop on a windy day in 1:22 or 24.2 mph. Average power 218 watts.

The fairing is coroplast shaped like a blimp, or blunt airfoil. It handles pretty well in wind, but when the wind gets over 20 mph I usually ride something else. The most ticklish moments are when descending and you break out of the trees and catch a gusting crosswind in the bottom of a swale. I've had that at 42 mph and been moved over a foot or so.

The lid in the back is raised and the sides widened to provide draft for my roadie friends. They get enough draft to raise their average speed. Two drafted behind me on our sub-5 hour century.